BMW E91 Manuel d'utilisateur

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I-drive / Navigation Professional Retrofit for the E90
…as performed by Booster4075
With support from the members of the e90post.com forum / Navigation retrofit thread at:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=131416
Document revision 1.3 – 10/22/08
_____________________________________________________________________________________
Disclaimer:
This retrofit should only be done when all other options are exhausted (i.e. Buying another car,
etc…) It is assumed that doing this retrofit would void the warranty on related systems and this is not at all
endorsed, supported, or otherwise suggested to do on your BMW e90. I wouldn’t recommend even thinking
about doing this retrofit until fully researching this effort. For most people, you really are better off buying
another car and leaving this retrofit to the die-hards. Know your limitations and those of who you entrust to
tamper with your vehicle. This retrofit is not for the faint of heart...merely changing hardware is only half the
battle. If you are even contemplating doing this retrofit, secure someone, somewhere, who has the equipment
and know-how to get this programmed FIRST, before buying or changing anything. As these cars are literal
technological masterpieces, it requires strong technical measures to enable these cars to recognize and use
even this OEM hardware. If BMW had made a (authorized) retrofit, this would be as simple as going down to
the local dealer and having them “add” the software to the car. Unfortunately, there is no such "retrofit"
software package and dealership service departments have no idea how to do this and most won’t want to
help even if you throw money/shop labor at it. (I’ve thrown money towards dealership labor to “try” – it’s a
waste of your hard-earned cash at $175/hr to get zero results.) It is likely that there is a “hacker” technician or
two at each shop who does know how change a vehicle order and "make things work", but isn't "allowed" to
do it for customer cars. This is nothing like the old days of putting in a car stereo and amp and having it work
out of the box. Some independent shops have talented technicians with up-to-date knowledge and
equipment that may be able to help. All of that being said, I have no regrets in doing this retrofit and have
learned a lot along the way. If you have any doubts, do what several dozen people told me…buy a car with
Navigation already installed.
It should be noted that my car came already equipped with voice control/recognition, Logic 7 audio, BMW
assist and was Bluetooth equipped from the factory. Your car may or may not be similarly equipped and may
need additional harnesses, parts, and/or have other issues during this retrofit. You can also refer to the BMW
Accessory installation documentation for the Business-to-Professional navigation system retrofit (SA609), p/n:
65900415350 / 65836976392. This documentation may aid you to fill in the gaps if your car is not similarly
equipped (i.e. adding a microphone, etc…) Some of these individual retrofit parts are still available also – some
are not.
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Résumé du contenu

Page 1

1 I-drive / Navigation Professional Retrofit for the E90 …as performed by Booster4075 With support from the members of the e90post.com forum / Naviga

Page 2

10 Remove both cup holders by removing the four Phillips screws.

Page 3 - Nomenclature

11 Unscrew the panel underneath the glove box by removing the two T-20 torx screws. Unplug the bulb connector. Open the glove box and remove the

Page 4 - Wire identification:

12 Remove the glove box back panel by removing the six T-20 torx screws and pull the panel out. Unplug the harness from the bulb, trunk lock switch,

Page 5 - Tools Required:

13 Remove the driver’s side under-dash panel by taking out the three T-20 torx screws. Unplug the speaker and light.

Page 6

14 I found it easier to un-snap the Bluetooth antenna from the panel than to unplug the fakra connector. I also slid the fiber-optic connector off t

Page 7

15 Pull up very hard on the transmission shift knob (without punching yourself in the face when it pops off!) – do not twist it! Then gently pull u

Page 8

16 Slide your seats forward and upright. Remove the back cover of the center console trim by pulling gently at the top edge and simultaneously pryin

Page 9

17 Unplug the wires for the lighter and aux/USB (if equipped.) Yank up hard on the e-brake. If your car is equipped with the phone-prep kit, you w

Page 10

18 Slide the seats back, move the steering wheel down and all the way back, and disconnect the battery. GENTLY, pry up the center dash trim. This pie

Page 11

19 Once this center trim is off, disconnect the three wiring connectors for the start button, the DSC/hazard/door lock buttons and carefully remove t

Page 12

2 In addition, the retrofit illustrated was performed on an E90 with a build date of 10/06. Wiring harnesses and subsystems can vary dramatically wi

Page 13

20 Gently pry up the speaker trim. .

Page 14

21 Unscrew the three Phillips screws holding in the speaker, unplug it, and remove it.

Page 15

22 Pry up the solar sensor, unplug it, and remove it.

Page 16

23 CAREFULLY, pry out the driver’s side vent/trim. Then just pull the headlight switch straight towards you and rock it down and out of the dash.

Page 17

24 Make sure you have already disconnected your battery before you continue! (Completely disconnecting the negative terminal in the trunk is the eas

Page 18

25 Once the airbag is unlatched, pry up on the small black tabs on each squib connector to unlock the connectors. Then remove each connector from th

Page 19

26 Unplug the wiring connectors from the center steering hub/clock spring. Remove the 16mm bolt. I took this time to use a marker to mark the hub

Page 20

27 Pry up the upper steering wheel trim and pop the clips on each side.

Page 21

28 Pull out the trim, exposing the “leather” trim on top of the column. Use needle-nose pliers to squeeze these pins and push them out. Remove the

Page 22

29 Using pliers or a screwdriver, carefully bend the plastic tabs outwards to unlatch the lower trim from the steering column.

Page 23

3 Nomenclature Business or Professional Navigation? - BMW created two levels of navigation sophistication. “Business” is a simple navigation system

Page 24

30 Remove the four T-20 screws holding the blinkers/cruise/wiper switch assembly.

Page 25

31 Unplug both connectors from the bottom-back of the switch.

Page 26

32 Unscrew the two screws holding the gauge assembly in place. Remove the gauges, unplug the connector and set the gauges aside.

Page 27

33 Carefully, pry out the “airbag” plastic cap from the A-pillar trim and unscrew the T-20 bolt. If you are not careful, you will muck-up the plast

Page 28

34 Pry-out the key bezel and remove the two Phillips screws. Pull out the key holder module and plug it from the harness.

Page 29

35 Reach underneath the passenger side dash and unplug both side connectors to the passenger airbag (same type of connectors as on the steering wheel

Page 30

36 Roll the dash back towards you, lifting it slightly to clear the steering column. The dashboard is light and can be placed on your lap and lifted

Page 31

37 This is what is removed!

Page 32

38 Retrofit! Take the cooling tube and remove the piece with the rubber mounting flange with the hole in it. Keep the male-to-male joiner on this pie

Page 33

39 Stick the male-to-male joiner into the existing cooling hose on your car. This is what it looks like “Before”:

Page 34

4 Wire identification: Wire Color BL Blue BR Brown GE Yellow GN Green GR Gray OR Orange RS Pink RT Red SW Black VI Violet WS W

Page 35

40 This is what it looks like “AFTER” you attach the cooling hose: Make sure to wedge the rubber mounting loop/flange onto the existing post on the

Page 36

41 Central Information Display (CID) Run the thick LVDS Cable from the CID hole down the left side vent area, around the back and into the dash hole

Page 37

42 I ran into an issue where Pin #37 of the JBE was already filled, so I hooked the CID pin #1 into the junction for this wire as opposed to tapping

Page 38 - Retrofit!

43 To connect the rest of the wires of the CID, they all get connected to the x14272 connector of the JBE. Remove connector x14272 at the front of th

Page 39

44 Then split the connector apart:

Page 40

45 One the connector is apart, you can slide the insides apart to make two connectors:

Page 41

46 If you look carefully, you can see that each pin is labeled, so putting pins into the connector should not be confusing if you take your time and

Page 42

47 I-Drive Controller I built a four-pin harness which ran from the center console of the car (where the controller is located) to the right front

Page 43

48 There are two different ways to hook up the controller. The “proper” (as a navigation-equipped car was built) way is to run the RT/WS (power) le

Page 44

49 I located connector x11003 at the back – it’s a green connector also shown here (I’ve also been told it comes in blue): Note that the pict

Page 45

5 Parts Required: • CCC / Navigation head unit (p/n depends on build date & region) • I-drive controller (p/n depends on build date & regi

Page 46

50 CCC Fan If you are lucky, you will find one of the remaining business-to-pro retrofit fan harnesses out there. I was able to get one from a salv

Page 47

51 GPS Antenna Cable You need to run an additional antenna cable for the navigation system – it’s not already in the harness (at least it wasn’t in m

Page 48

52 Then run the antenna wire underneath the back seat-back and into the trunk. Lift up the cargo tray and observe the TCU on the right side. Unhook

Page 49

53 Reassembly! Make sure to swap over any parts from your dash, including your passenger dash airbag. Torque the four bolts to 7nm (60 in/lbs.) N

Page 50 - CCC Fan

54 Steering Wheel Buttons (optional) Before you put the steering wheel back on, now would be a good time to swap the (optional) steering wheel button

Page 51 - GPS Antenna Cable

55 To do the swap, remove the three screws from the back of the steering wheel and the whole trim & buttons pull off of the front of the steeri

Page 52

56 This is what it looks like when removed: Replace the button set with the new style, reinstall the trim on the wheel, and you are set. There is

Page 53 - Reassembly!

57 Wrapping it up Putting the rest together is cake. As for the center console, you will need to swap over your shift boot and ashtray to the new t

Page 54

58 Troubleshooting I’ve had plenty of issues while trying to figure this retrofit out…hopefully if you run into problems, these will help: NO AUDIO –

Page 55

6 Getting Started / Disassembly Just do it now – empty out your glove box, center console, and don’t forget to remove the CD from your radio – you wo

Page 56

7 Take out the two Phillips screws and remove the radio. Unplug the fakra connector for the antenna and unsnap the fat square connector at the back b

Page 57 - Wrapping it up

8 Remove the four T-20 torx screws at edges of the plastic mounting bracket and the two 8mm screws at the bottom of the bracket. Remove the bracket

Page 58 - Troubleshooting

9 Pry up the dash trim strip with your trim tool – it’ll snap out easy. It will probably also snap in half easily, so take your time. It’s held in

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